I know I’m not alone when I say that one of the best things about waterfowl hunting is that it’s a social sport. Besides the bird count, there’s the good times, such as a youngster getting their first bird, or a veteran adding some more “jewelry” to the lanyard. Lest we forget the good-natured trash talking about missed shots, or who calls the best, whose always late and other topics to give your buddies some grief over.
When everything goes right and the birds are cooperating, it’s not uncommon for several to be knocked down when the shooters are “on,” and then the dog gets to do its thing. Having the ability to mark multiple birds pays off in quick, efficient retrieves so the next flight can be worked.
A “mark” is simply when the dog marks where a bird has fallen. When proficient, the dog remembers where it and others have fallen and returns to those areas for the retrieve. Though maybe not so crucial a skill when hunting big open water, it’s invaluable when hunting in cover. Flooded timber, areas thick with water hyacinth, or where crops such as millet and Sudan grass are legally planted can make birds disappear, and a dog that can’t mark well will struggle.
Training techniques
Tyler Davis of North Pontchartrain Retrievers located in Abita Springs, La., currently has 12 dogs in training. An avid hunter himself, he not only knows the practical reason for training on multiple marks but also trains his students on it.
“As with any task or concept you’re trying to teach, consistency is key,” Davis said. “I start on multiple marks when I’m satisfied that the dog is steady, can easily fetch singles, heel, and deliver to hand.”

Davis throws white bumpers on land to 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions with the distance and cover both short.
“I’ll say ‘mark’ on each throw so the dog learns to look out, and space the throws out a few seconds so the dog gets a good look at the first one,” he said.
Davis sends the dog to the second throw, aka the “go bird,” and when returning he lines up on the first mark so the dog will come to heel facing the mark.
“I’ll say ‘Where’s your bird?’ so the dog learns a mark is still out there, then send it by saying the dog’s name,” he said.
If the dog has yet to be introduced to gunfire, this would be a good time to start, so long as it doesn’t scare or distract it.
The next step is to reverse the order. The dog picks up the first mark thrown, which develops memory. As the dog progresses, distance is increased and cover is introduced. A third mark thrown to the 12 o’clock position can be added.
The next step
Once the dog has this down, the trainer will need some helpers or will need to invest in wingers (see photo) or other remote launching systems. The distance will be further than can be thrown by hand and the dog needs to be focused on what’s in front.
“I’ll have a helper throw marks,” Davis said. “If the dog starts to break down before reaching the mark, the helper will throw more dummies.”
This is called a “fire drill” and teaches the dog to keep going. Again, this is taught on land. It’s quicker, the dog won’t tire out as fast (as when swimming), and it learns to commit the mark to memory since there’s no splash and the bird goes out of sight.
From there, just increase distance and cover on both land and water. Davis and I regularly land train out past 150 yards and further. If a dog can pick up a triple at that distance, shorter ones when hunting are no problem. We also train with real birds as much as we can. The scent helps the dog hone in when the mark is out of sight on land or water.
At some point, this skill will come in handy. Not to mention, it makes it easier on the dog.
Happy hunting!
Tyler Davis can be reached by phone at 985-502-2992 or on Facebook at NPretrievers.
The post “Teaching your hunting dog how to mark multiple birds” first appeared on LouisianaSportsman.com.

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